We wanted to do one more day trip during this Venice stay and we had decided to go to Treviso. This was before I met Daniela. Meeting her there and going to “her” coffee place were the icing on the cake.
We took a really nice train and met Daniela on it. I was so excited to see her waving, walking towards us.
We got off at the Treviso Centrale station and followed Daniela through the town. She pointed out all kinds of things from a great linens store to the area of town which was bombed by the Americans in WWII. Finally we arrived at the Caffe Indimenticabile (unforgettable)
We loved It! It had a wonderful Northern California vibe. There were books on all of the tables and many more on shelves. This was the first coffee place I’d been to where you could choose your own coffee for the espresso. I had Sumatra and it was great. Ken had a “shakerato”, Italy’s version of iced coffee:
We could have stayed there all day but we wanted to see some of Treviso before it got too hat to walk around much. So, Daniela walked us over to the Santa Caterina Museum. I had read a couple of articles she wrote so I knew what I was looking for and looking at. Good thing because we had only 1 hour inside–they were reluctant to sell us the tickets to go in because of the short time but it was really perfect for us.
First we saw the fresco cycle of the story of Ursula by Tomas de Modena. Knowing the story in advance really helped.
Next, I knew we wanted to see the sculpture of Arturo Martini. Really loved this work. It showed his affection and humor.
The museum sent a young woman to accompany us; she said she was just there to “watch” but I asked her to point out to us the most important and most famous works in the painting gallery. The Bellini colors really stood out and we saw some other fabulous work. We made a very quick tour of the archeological side of the museum and it was just about 12:30–closing time. From there we walked to the Duomo taking in the sights like La Loggia dei Cavalieri:
The Duomo was closed for the afternoon. So we sat on the steps of the Duomo for a while and took a leisurely walk back towards the train station.
The Sile River:
We stopped in a bar for tremezzini and water. In the train station we found we had just missed a train to Venice and had to wait a half hour for the next so we went back across the street and got some gelato while we waited. I think I could live in Treviso–that’s how much we liked it on this first glance.
This public sculpture is right near the train station; it’s called the Grand Sphere:
We took a nice long rest to stay out of the heat. I stressed over where to make dinner reservations. So many restaurants/so little time! Finally we decided on L’Anice Stellato in Canneregio. We were a little late because we’d gotten on the wrong #2 vap and had to ride past our stop, get off at Rialto and walk back. This restauraint has been on my list for years and apparently everyone elses because it was filled with tourists. We had a nice table on the quiet canal. View from the table:
I loved the food and the service. We started with spaghetti with razor clams. And then we had grilled pork filet with a salad of fresh fennel and grapefruit. I thought all of it was very good. The 2 really outstanding dishes were dessert and contorno (side) of peperonata. Peppers cooked with tomato sauce and fresh herbs. It really hit the spot. We drank a few different white wines by the glass. The dessert was fantastic. It was a trio of frozen zabaglione (a custard made with marsala wine) one was “classic” with just a drizzle of caramel sauce, one was with a raisin compote and the third had crushed amaretti cookies and cherries. We also drank a Friulian sweet wine with the dolce.
We had a really great walk back home. Venice at night. Very quiet. Totally safe if not just a tiny bit spooky. (think ghosts not robbers). When we got near the train station there were still a bunch of people out. We stayed on the top of the Scalzi bridge to enjoy the view.


Treviso — 3 Comments

  1. Isn’t Treviso a beautiful city! (And that Daniela is just a gem.)It sounds like you had another good day. 🙂

  2. I love Treviso. I hope to tear myself away from Venice for a day trip there this time.
    In the Winter, all of the restaurants serve dishes made with radicchio, yum!