We set out for Cannaregio after coffee at Doge. The walk over was easy–meaning not too crowded going over Rialto. I stopped into Sephora to see if it would really be cheaper to buy an Italian perfume here. Maybe it’s because Sephora is American, I’m not sure, but it was pretty close to the same price.
First stop was Matto Forcolaio. I had read about it on Yvonne’s blog and Bill reminded me of it. A cute young man, working in a small space, carving oar holders (forcole). Each one is a work of art, a dying art that he is helping to survive.
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From there we did some wandering towards the Gesuiti church.
And I saw this old wall:
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Santa Maria Assunta is the full name of this overwhelmingly upscale church. It is full of art and sparkling green marble–a real Wow! No photos allowed but I had to take one of this man:
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I talked to him a bit. He is a volunteer and it takes him about a month to clean the whole church and then start again.
He’s been doing it for about 10 years–with a spray bottle and a rag. Someone else washes the floors once a week.
From there we walked to Fondamente Nuove where the temperature was perfect and the breeze was strong. We strolled by all the restaurants and over to the Mendicanti, next to the hospital. A few friends (including the Hazans) have recommended the butcher on calle lunga Santa Maria Formosa so we headed over there. You know we had to try the salami. We got the sopressa with fennel–and some sausage, some very smokey speck and a loaf (polpettone) of chicken and turkey wrapped in speck and rosemary. It was really fantastic. We had it for lunch, still warm, with a salad and some bread.
I took this quick shot, leaving Brodo e Brace (the butcher place). Always a surprise when you look up and there’s a gorgeous piece of Venice:
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When we got home the cleaning person was still here and so we walked a bit and found a little spot near a canal to relax. I had fun experimenting with the reflections there:
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After lunch we rested. I made the sausage and some greens with store bought raviioli for dinner. After a while we went for a walk to find Mindy’s apartment but Google maps messed us up. We’ll find it tomorrow. And we went to San Stae gelato. I tried a new flavor–custard with strawberry (like jam, not fresh) and I love it. Ken got coconut and bacio–a great combination.
Came home and watched soccer. Sad for Spain and for Kathryn who loves that team.


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