I think technically speaking this area is called Santi Appostoli but I’m not really sure.  Whatever, we really like it.  The tourists seem to go only on the Fondamenta, to catch the vaporetto, or on the main streets from Strada Nuova to here so there are no tours clogging our paths.  And one could shop for everything right nearby.  We stopped at the Puppa (?) bar for coffee and they were playing the Allman Brothers.  Ken got into a conversation with the barista about them–he loved the song but didn’t know who was playing.

We chose, instead to go to the Rialto market to shop.  We took the traghetto which is still fun for me and got a bunch of salad stuff and some fruit.  Then I went into Casa Di Parmigiano.  Even though they are very nice, I always find that place intimidating and uncomfortable.  It’s so small and even early, there are people waiting behind you.  Anyway, we got some fresh pasta and some truffled sheep cheese (fantastic!) and then had a nice sit before crossing the Rialto Bridge:


Next stop was the butcher near Santa Maria Formosa.  In addition to salami and ham we got a veal cutlet–already pounded out and crumbed and two meat balls–all ready to cook.We had a sit in front of the hospital:

looking straight up

looking straight up

While we were sitting I remembered that I really wanted to find (well, not really just find.  I wanted to buy stuff) the new Vizio Virtu, the best chocolate shop in Venice.  The new store is really nice and much bigger.  It’s about 2 streets away from Campo San Marina, on a corner.They don’t have a sign yet but they have this in the window:IMG_1727vv

I saw the owner and congratulated her on the new shop.  They had just moved Friday and still aren’t completely settled but it look beautiful and very upscale.  We got a bunch of geletines which I love and a few chocolates and the bill was 22 euros!

We stopped, for bread,  at the bakery around the corner from the red house and headed home for lunch and rest time and storm watching.  It reminds me of being on the beach in Miami, how you can see the rain falling over the water.

After the rain, we decided to get on the vap and go walk through our old neighborhood–Campo Santa Margherita and San Barnaba, which we did.  We tried to text Amy and Larry or call them but something is not quite right with the phones and I didn’t want to just shout up to their window.

On the way home I was really jonesing for a spritz so we stopped again at the Puppa bar and had one.  The same guy was there and he gave us 2 little tiny pieces of pizza and a patty of potatoes.  Ken said what is this???  I tasted it and realized it was just like samosa filling (the barista seems like he’s maybe Indian).  When we were paying our 5 euros for the 2 spritzes I asked him and he said yes, it was the filling and they sell samosas there.  Go figure.IMG_1726sp

We came home and I was excited to cook our stuff from the butcher.  It all came out great.  I put some olive oil on the pasta and cooked some fresh peas in with it–thew a handful of arugula on the whole plate and it was really good!



We watched the last half of Game of Thrones.  Oh My!


We really like this Neighborhood — 4 Comments

  1. And you totally should have shouted up!
    We may wander around “your” hood today.

  2. So much fun to read about your day. I love how you can wander onto Amy’s neighborhood and can contemplate shouting out to her. Lol. So cute. P.s. Your dinner looked wonderful.

  3. Happy you located Vizio Virtu. I’m sorry they left my neighborhood.
    Did you happen to notice what type of shop has taken their place?
    I heard their old shop in Campiello San Toma, across from Ciaks, is a gelato shop.
    Dinner looked good!

    • Nothing yet in the old store. Yes, the gelato shop is Il Doge from Santa Margherita, second location for them.