Last day in Naples
First thing, I bought our skip-the-line tickets for the Capella Sansevero for the afternoon. So we had the whole morning ahead of us. After getting the laundry in and we chose to spend it in the Vomero neighborhood. We walked all the way down via Toledo to the staion for the funicolare train. Going steeply up hill with only 4 stops on its route is its job. When we got to the top, last stop, we started walking, taking in the feel of the place. It was as if we had traveled to a whole new city. The Vomero is much more upscale, cleaner and quieter—-at least the parts where we were. We walked to the St. Elmo’s castel and took in the views around there:
Then we walked back down to via Scarlatti. I called it the Lincoln Road of Naples. The wide, pedestrian street is lined by big sycamore trees, benches, wide side walks and while not designer but not cheap, shops. We walked the length of the pedestrian zone, did some minimal shopping in the Coin department store and had a nice bench sit. People are much more well-dressed up there and fun to watch for the fashion alone.
Even though the Vomero is more hoity toity it is not immune from the graffiti artists and the aging walls:
We found the same fuincolare station and rode back down the hill. No way was I going to leave Naples without one more shot at the pizza at da Atillio. We got there around 1:00 and therewere a bunch of people ahead of us but no problem…I got a glass of wine and sat at a little table to wait.
The pizza did not disappoint. I had 4 stagioni (seasons) so pretty and delicious. Ken had a folded pizza with ricotta, porcini and sausage. No more pizza for us for at least a year.
We actually had to scurry a bit to make our 3:30 reso at the museum. We absolutely had to get the laundry hung out in the sun to dry before this evening when we want to pack. Done!
Off we went to re-find the Capella San Severo. The regular line was about 2 bocks long but we got to go on the “red line” and only had to wait about 5 minutes for our 3:30 appointment. We got our audio guides ((paid for online too) and began to experience the remarkable chapel. Google the “Veiled Christ Naples” if you want an idea. No pictures were allowed inside. And like Yvonne said, the staute of Disillusion with the wrapping of marble fishing net, is almost more mind blowing than the main attratction. There was so much in that one small room!
On the way back we stopped at a bar for a couple of spritzes and the little snack they gave us in comfy chairs on the street.
Back home—time to get organized and pack. We celebrated being done by walking to the Fantasia ice cream place. When you see this shrine, with Padre Pio, you know you are at our building:
Napoli has been very very good to us!
The time just goes too quickly, doesn’t it? It’s good you got up to Vomero, and as you said, it’s such a contrast to its cousin down the hill!
I have enjoyed your visit to Naples! Fantastia gelato was Joan’s favorite “hang-out” on the way back from many dinners. It is a the corner of where we stayed. I am looking forward to your next stop.
Ah pizza and gelato in Naples! Jan, you’ve hit Portugal and Naples and I’ve been with you every step. More, more!
The Cappella Sansevero is so incredible and moving! Glad you got in. Padre Pio! The saying here is “Christ stopped at Eboli but Padre Pio stopped at Napoli” as you don’t see him much north of there. 😉
As I have said before, and I will continue to say throughout this trip, I am living vicariously! Thank you for sharing!
I am so glad you spent more time in Napoli than we did. You have filledin the gaps for me with your words and photos.