Great Tourist Day
We knew it was coming. For days, I’ve beeen watching the little yellow sun symbol on my weather app for Monday and, shocker, it proved true. Yes! a real sunny day! And beautiful!
After coffee at the Montanucci bar, we took off towards the duomo. We couldn’t just pass through without looking at it for a while:
Behind the duomo complex there was another entrance to the Anello della Rupe, the ring trail around the city. We easily found the entrance going down a grafitti decorated spiral staircase and we noticed a red and whte striped trail marker that was an encouraging sign, The trail was nice and clear with great views of the tufo cliffs and the countryside.
After about 20 minutes, we saw that we were at the same location where we had gotten lost the last time. This time, however, we followed newly discovered trail markers through the woods confident in our direction and path. And, of course, after another 30 minutesor so, the trail just stopped. Ken was particularly crestfallen, but I was fine. This was the third time we’d failed in our effort to circumnavigate the city and its amazing cliffs. So, once again, we just went back to where we knew the entrance was and called it a walk for the day. OK. There is no special prize for completing the trail. We can try again tomorrow in a different part of town. Meanwhile we are getting some great walks, ups and downs, cardio stuff, lots of steps.
Before coming back to the apartment, we had a nice long sit in the Piazza della Repubblica watching the locals and the mounting of the Christmas lights. I think they will turn them on this weekend, but we’ll be in Spoleto by then.
We returned to the apartment for a while for lentil soup and fresh focaccia and a rest.
Since this was the first really clear day, it seemed perfect to climb the Torre del Moro, the clock tower right in the center of town.
Up we went, 250 steps, for the priveledge of a magnificent 360° view. Looking, sideways, at the duomo from up there was so cool.
There was a young family from Singapore up there with us, too. Climbing down was a breeze. And we walked over to the duomo to check out the impressive San Brizio chapel we had missed before. It is a stunning display of Luca Signorelli frescoes from the early 1500’s.
We came out of the duomo to have the piazza almost to ouselves. I liked watching the shadows of the other buildings on the glittery facade. And, of course, we noticed parts we hadn’t seen before.
For dinner we returned to the charming Trattoria del Poggi. We both started with prosecco and a shared portion of tagliolini with black truffles (we both agree, they are nothing at all like white truffles, but they are cheap). I had to have the boar stew; it’s just a perfect Umbrian dish to me with the silky potato puré, the fork tender pieces of meat, and the slightly piccante sauce. Ken had another super local delicious dish: faraona (guinea fowl) with a chicken liver sauce. I had a really delicious grappa in honor of my dad’s birthday (he of the over indulgences) and Ken had a creme caramel for dessert.
This was really a wonderful touristy day for us. Yay!
The whole front of the church are painted frescoes exposed to the elements? That is is amazing! How could they have lasted all these years?
no…they’re mosaics!
As always superb descriptives Jan. I’m drooling! Lovely photos too. Grazie mille!
Great day! Can you ask someone how to get around the whole wall. It’s like a detective mystery and I want to know the solution.
Awesome light ! As always an excellent post.