Piove (rain)
Yep. It was raining most of the day, but not hard enough to keep us inside. First things first, coffee at the Puppa Bar and then we went Rizzo, the fresh pasta place across from Ballarin, and got an assortment of stuffed pasta to make for a dinner at home. Also stopped at a bakery and the little meat and cheese place right near us. I just wore my rain jacket because doing the umbrella dance is not one of my favorite things when we hit the tight, crowded streets. It can be challenging.
After we got all of the groceries all stashed we hung out for a while in Donna and Andy’s place before setting off to the Frari.
In order to get over to San Polo and avoid the crowds, we took the traghetto from Ca d’oro to Rialto and walked the back way, passing Veccio Fritolin (yes, I totally use restaurants as landmarks) and coming upon the Frari from the north (?) side. There was no line to get into the church. Donna got an audio guide and listened and gave us wonderful art history lessons mixing the specifics with her own insights and knowledge. At the oh-so-memorable, Titian masterpiece ,Assumption work, we sat for a while. Usually this piece brings me to tears but I just wasn’t getting the usual reaction. As I continued to look at it, I realized the the painting was covered by a screen with a photo of it. No wonder I didn’t feel a connection! Apparently, they are doing some restoration work on it. The realization momentarily took the wind out of our sails, but the rest of the church remains a must see. when the Titian is restored, a MUST see.
We moved on to the Donatello (teenage mutant Ninja turtle) work and the stunning Bellini. Donna really enlightened us when we came to the monument/grave of Titian. I had never noticed that the image of the famous painting is carved on the back of it.
We lit candles before leaving and Ken took the photos:
Muro, very nearby, was totally full, so it was great that we had (thanks to Donna) a reservation. It took forever for us to get any attention, but when we finally did, the meal went smoothly. We totally over-ordered, getting 2 pizzas and a salad each. I loved mine with tuna and little shrimp and the pizza was decent. Walking back, we did some window shopping and took the traghetto again.
After a bit of rest time, Andy and I went out, in the rain, to the Coop for a few more ingredients and a bottle of Valpollicella.
The dinner was fine–lots of veggies and the fresh pasta. And the continued converstaions.
And that’s a wrap.
You use restaurants as landmarks….I love it. I “see” food in many things…..like the big tray with little candles on top. I see a pepperoni pizza!
I love how you maneuver the streets in your daily life. You’re a real pro and your adventures are magical in and out of the rain. so nice you can share this with your friends. It’s like being a real Venetian. Love your posts.
The Frariis my favorite church anywhere. I just inhaled your photos. So great the way you do nott let the rain stop you from having a great trip.