A little taste of Bernini
Our friend Donna told us we “must” see Bernini’s Sculpture, St. Teresa in Ecstasy, so that was our goal for the morning. It is in the Santa Maria della Vittoria Church. The walk was just under an hour on google maps. We went over Ponte Garibaldi heading north east with a minor detour to visit the “turtle fountain.”
At Piazza Venezia, we had to take a major detour because there was a huge demonstration of some sort and lots of streets were blocked off. We kept on until we finally got to Piazza Quirinale and walked on the long via Quirinale to the church. It took us an hour and 10 minutes. Wikipedia says the church is “an intimate, flamboyant 17th-century church” and that sums it up; it is a feast for the eyes and, if you are so inclined, for the spirit. We really did love the expressive, swooning Teresa by Bernini and some of the other works in the church.
Heading back in to the historic center we walked on via Barberini passing the car dealerships and lots of retail stores. For a few blocks we were behind this troupe of Santa musicians:
The Trevi Fountain was right on our way so we had a nice moment with it. And I got a kick out of this street performer there:
We popped into the Pantheon which was way less crowded than it had been on Friday. We walked right in, no line at all, and breathed in the history, beauty, and brilliance of the place.
Lunch at Armando was truly special. I started with a pumpkin mousse creation, with bits of sausage and chestnuts, topped with a delicious Tuscan olive oil. I had to have saltimbocca and it was perfect. Ken had a salad and sausages with polenta and we shared an order of ( the best of the whole trip) cicoria. No room for dessert.
The half hour walk home was uneventful, except that I noticed for the first time, this sculpture, Homeless Jesus, by Timothy Schmalz, just in front of the Trastevere museum:
After doing the bulk of our packing, we had a few errands and we wanted to see another Bernini (thanks, Vicki) at the San Francesco a Ripa Grande Church close by in Trastevere. The work was under restoration but we could still see it, though its impact was greatly reduced. As we were only 2 blocks from the Innocenti cookie place, we visited there and said our goodbyes and, of course, got some cookies. Errands accomplished, we headed home.
Left over soup was all the better because I mixed the remaining tomato sauce into it. Ken loved it. And we had cookies, of course.
Tomorrow we leave Italy and take off for 2 days in Lisbon. I have a lump in my throat and an ache in my heart as I write this, but am so appreciative and grateful that we found this way of travel and this place that we love.
Powerful sculpture of Homeless Jesus…
delicious looking “fall” plate.
sitting with you in PuppaBarQuincy again this cold morning and so grateful for your posts and photos….what an amazing journey….looking forward to your final travel days in Lisbon.
I can only hope for adventures like yours when I retire!!
big hugs to you both!!
What a wonderful journey. Safe travels and we await you with open arms.
That same sculpture of Homeless Jesus is also right here in Venice, Florida, where my wife and I are spending the winter.
Also, there is a beautiful, non-denominational prayer attributed to St.Teresa, known as the “bookmark prayer”. It begins, “Let nothing disturb you nor frighten you. All things pass away”. Sorry to hear you are leaving Italy. Thanks again for sharing your journey with us.
Thank you so much for sharing your trip with all of us! I have enjoyed reading about all your days in Italy this year (as in the past years). Have a safe trip home!
All great things come to an end, sadly… Thank you for allowing so many of us to take your daily adventures with you. It is ALWAYS so hard to leave places that we love and are a part of, which clearly you are… Safe travels on, and enjoy Lisbon, catch some Fado…