All Good
It was kind of a lazy morning, but we got out and walked towards the Ponte Sisto, stopping for coffee on the way. I was able to walk us (phone-free, just on memory) pretty directly to the Campo dei Fiori passing Piazza Farnese on the way. The market at the Campo is mostly for tourists now. The flower stalls seem to be “healthy,” but there are fewer produce and more food souvenier stalls than I ever remember. It mostly looks like this:
Noteworthy was this one cart where they apparently put out the produce that would have been waste for people to take free.
We just wandered around what was our neighborhood for a week in 2012 and made our way to Largo Argentina. This square includes Roman ruins from Pompey’s Theater and is believed to be the site of the assasination of Julius Ceasar. It is undergoing renovation and restoration in preparation for being open to the public in 2021. The cat sanctuary, I believe, is still there, but we only saw 2 cats. This photo is perfect—ruins with crane.
From there we walked back over the Ponte Garibaldi and back to Trastevere. We stopped at a church, the Basilica of San Crisogono, where we found the eerie tomb of Saint Anna Maria Taigi.
Here is a quote from Atlas Obsura about her:
When she died in 1837 it was only a few days before pilgrims started to visit her resting place despite a cholera epidemic (which some believe she was holding off while alive). In 1868 her coffin was opened and though her clothes had deteriorated, her body was found to be incorrupt. When examined again in 1920, she had begun to decompose and so her visible hands and face were covered in wax replicas. In a word: Spooky!
From there we walked back to Piazza San Cosimato to get some soup makings—chicken and vegetables. I love shopping in these markets. The vendors are so friendly. The produce woman gifted me some celery and tomatoes after I bought a bag of her mixed, pre-cut veggies.
We stopped at Le Levian for some sandwiches for lunch and a baguette for dinner and came home for nap time.
For our evening walk we headed to the other side of viale Trastevere and the faboulous Innocenti cookie shop, where I had a very sweet emotional moment with the owner. She gave us each a cookie for “therapy.” (thanks again, Jim). And then we walked up to the top of the Garibaldi bridge to watch the Tiber and the starlings in murmation. There is no way to photograph them with my iPhone, but do yourself a favor and google murmation if you haven’t already seen video of the dance of these birds.
We came back home and cooked dinner, which came out great, I must say. There was a bottle of Chianti here that came with the apartment and we drank that and the fabulous French bread. And, of course, cookies.
Not a spectacular day but really a good one.
any day that you’re able to get up, walk without pain, eat and drink fabulous things…actually IS spectacular!
I thought this trip was only 6 weeks! It seems like you have been there months! I look forward to my meals each day. Love you josie
2 months and winding down quickly
A lovely day…
Seems like a really good day to me. We loved the cat sanctuary – found it quite by chance, but visited on every subsequent trip. I would be sad if it ceased to exist.