San Polo
My big accomplishment of the morning was catching the garbage collectors downstairs. There is an ongoing problem with seagulls here. They will totally tear up garbage bags left on the street so that is absolutely forbidden and you can be fined around $200 for doing it. There is a garbage and recycling boat around the block but you have to get it all there before 8:30am. Elisa, who lives just above us, has a big hook on a rope and she sends hers out the window to the guys. If I see the hook fly past our window I can run down with our garbage and give it to them. So, I watched carefully and was able to run down with our bag. Mission accomplished!
We said goodbye to Marcia and David and we walked over to San Polo. There are surely not as many people here but it’s still quite crowded on the Rialto Bridge and on the main Ruga/street in San Polo. We stopped at an old favorite. Caffè del Doge for coffee and visited The San Silvestro Church.
Campo San Polo is finally without scaffolding:
And right on the main path is this new dumpling shop “Ravioleria Venezia”
I am in search of unscented laundry soap so I checked at the big soap store near Nomboli but they don’t have any. We kept walking up to Campo San Toma and decided we wanted to visit the Frari church, so we backtracked a bit. The main altar piece is still covered up but we took a good long look at another significant work, The Pala Pesaro:
Apparently Titian broke all the rules with this by putting Mary off center and not flanked by Peter and Francis. The painting and the chapel are all about Jacopo Pesaro, a war hero, who bought them in 1518.
We headed back to Nomboli for tramezzini for lunch and then walked home, back down the ruga and over the bridge.
Later, we made a quick little trip to the Coop and the fruit and vegetable stand and came home. Elisa made us a wonderful dinner of lots of veggies and a “savory cheese cake.”
We had a nice visit with her, finally gave her the stack of cash for the rent and talked a while. She took us to see another rental they have bought for long term. The new tenant will come in June for over a year. It is a gorgeous, large apartment very close to here. I was just imagining spending some extended time there.
A year in Venice? Sign me up!