The weather apps we have were predicting rain but it never did come down. The fog instead was pervasive. Luigi, our land lord, tells us the we are in a “fog belt” here and it’s proving to be true.
Then we went to see if the laundromat we found on google was really there. Good thing we didn’t bring the dirty clothes because it turned out to be a dry cleaner. So, we went to the Teatro Bibiena, a beautiful little jewel of a theater whose claim to fame is that Mozart played there when he was 14 years old and his father raved about the facility. It seats about 200 now and is used for conferences as well as theatrical performances. The pink velvet on the seats is faded and well worn but the place really retains its charm.
We wandered towards the town center and were back near the basilica. Right across the street, to the side of it, is the small, round, brick church, the Rotunda of San Lorenzo. The oldest in Mantova, it was built in the 11the century. It has an upstairs gallery where the women sat long ago, but it is no longer in use.
Next stop was ‘Zzino a “fast food” place I had read about as among the best “street” food places in Montova. We got tramezzini and some really bland vegetable soup. Overrated, IMO.
Came back to our place for a rest and at 4:00 Luigi picked us up to take us to his friend, Ezzio’s bakery, just over the bridge in San Giorgio. According to Luigi, he makes the best “Anello di Monaco” in Mantova. This is a holiday sweet bread with hazelnut cream inside and only exists here in this area. The name translates as Ring of Munich and it is comparable to panettone, brioche or even Jewish babka. We had it with some tea, sitting in the pretty bakery. It was much lighter than I expected. Ezzio also brought us a plate of cookies to taste. There was plenty of political talk. Apparently the Italian papers are playing up the possibility of Hillary still winning by the electoral college. It was a totally delightful afternoon tea, but I forgot my phone so no photos.
For the evening we stayed in and feasted on our shopping stuff. And more Mantovane cookies called sbrisolona–thick, crunchy and buttery.
I am in a tizzy because our Verona apartment owner emailed to say that we shouldn’t come until late in the day on Sunday because there will be a marathon there and all the street will be closed. Gotta figure this out. We can’t stay here because there are new guests coming. What to do???
Problems like this make us feel so fortunate.